Gnome ignores GTK font settings

[absoluteflatness]

So, I've just switched back from KDE to Gnome.

On first starting Gnome, my GTK fonts were the expected face and size, but somewhere along the line, they were reset to defaults (looks like bitstream vera sans 10). I had some things like gtk-engines-qt installed that I thought might be interfering, but after removing them, the problem is still there.

Everything else controlled by gnome-settings-daemon and the Appearance panel changes correctly, including fonts and font sizes for Metacity and GTK themes, it's just the fonts that are the issue.

My gtk apps respect settings if I manually record them in a ~/.gtkrc-2.0 file, but what's the deal with gnome that it's lost the ability to set fonts? I've deleted ~/.gnome, ~/.gnome2, ~/gnome-private, ~/.gnome-desktop, and everything .gtkrc-related, and no change. Any thoughts?